Wow, I can’t believe the month of October has passed. I’ve spent all this time in Rodellar, Spain, rockclimbing of course! I wanted to go to Rodellar for a while, people rave about it even more than Kalymnos. With this curiosity, I arranged time off and I booked my flights to Spain 4 months in advance. I was super dooper psyched for another new place in Europe to explore.
 Beautiful Rodellar Photo: Eric Godfrey |
 Rodellar Gorge.. So nice  |  The Famous Dolphin Photo: Eric Godfrey |
The thing is, I thought Rodellar was quite a small crag aka just the famous dolphin arch. I was so wrong, the dolphin was tiny and there were multitudes of crags, all within minimal walking distance from each other. I also had this assumption that the climbing would be tufa climbing much the same as Kalymnos. The climbing is quite varied, many holds had cracks or square edges. The easier climbs were usually quite hard and pumpy, really need to be climbing consistent 7b and above to really enjoy this area. The gorge is breathtakingly beautiful, people are lovely and most importantly the climbing was absolutely amazing! I loved the long, steep, power endurance routes, I felt like I was in my element.
| Fig season in Spain. This is Lisa, MJ and Iplundering all the figs we could find and consuming them. | Meeting another Tracey is a rare coincidence. Meeting another Tracey that is Asian, a climber and in Rodellar is just 1 in a gazillion. | Ever wondered how to make your own Kneebar Pad, with a old climbing shoe? Well, this is how! |
Upon arrival, I didn’t get the crazy 1 week of hideous jet lag, but I did get the 1 week of getting used to the style easier climbing hahaha.. I ended up getting on many harder things, considering that I wanted to make this an onsight trip. So, I still suck at onsighting because all I did was project. I had set my eyes on many of the classic 7b+s and in a few weeks I had ticked off quite a few and was onto 7c. “Nanuk" was my choice, super steep tufa climb with a heartbreaking crimpy finish. I managed this climb in 4 shots and was super stoked. The day I sent, I tried “L’any Que Ve Tambe" another 7c in the Boveda. OMGOSH, it was so good. Why didn’t I get on this sooner? This one had to be done.
 "L'any Que Ve Tambe" Grande Boveda, Ahh such a great climb. Photo: Eric Godfrey |
Lucy doing her thang! Photo: Eric Godfrey
On a separate occasion I got on this 8a called "Gracias Fina", yeah, no way would I be sending anything this hard on a trip right? I did all the moves quite easily on the dog. So, I was willing to give it another day to see what I could link. The next day, I was able to link the crux all 15m of it. Wait, I did all the hard moves, this might be possible. Second day on, I had another go of “Gracias Fina” I wasn’t having much luck on it, links were not easy. I was still super committed, the grand prize of doing an 8a on a overseas trip would be super rad. At this stage, I had 4 climbing days left and my mission was to tick “L’any Que Ve Tambe” and "Gracias Fina”. The plan was GF, LT, rest and GF, GF or LT depending on sendage. It was time to refine the beta and get route fit. Day 1, GF I knew I wouldn’t have much chance yet, but I got a new high point. Day 2, LT the masses came from France and I could only get on the route 2 times, first time just refined the beta and next shot fell at the crux… it was looking like I wouldn’t get anything sent at this rate. Day 3, business time, warmed up on the route and got used to the moves again. Second shot got a high point at the red point crux. 3rd shot got passed the crux, stuffed my feet up and fell off a few moves later. Ohh the emotions started to sink in I stuffed up the send because my brain blanked out and I only had 1 more day and that my power would be down second day on. Day 4, gotta give it everything and that I did, I don’t think I have ever screamed so much on a climb. The first shot I got stuck at the red point crux. Second shot, I gave it everything… I now consistently climb through the first crux and with the red point crux I death stared the bread slice pinch and screamed my way through. I only just caught the huge undercling after the crux. It wasn’t over yet I had 7 moves before I had an awesome knee bar rest. I got my hands mixed up 4 moves in and I tried to fix it, but it was too late I peeled off the tufa jugs in slow motion. The things that were running through my head were "it’s over that's my last good burn", "I can’t believe I made such a stupid mistake" and "I was so close how could I let it slip away". For the most part I felt ok about my efforts, Lucy felt so sorry for me she started crying. I gave it everything I had and if that wasn’t enough, then it was not meant to be. 1 move off the rest and an easy 7a to the anchors. Gahh makes me sad thinking about it. I gave it another burn, but my pinch strength was gone. So I ended up with no sendage, big fat bummer and a half.
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On the other quick draw, there were a few crag creeps around! For the most part, people know how to check someone out inconspicuously. Before I mentioned that it was a French holiday, so many Frenches were around and yes, I do love their ascent, makes me melt. One day at Prince San Rie crag, 2 frenches rock up. One was so drop dead, ripped, handsome kinda like a crag prince and the other had a nice body and darker hair (photo below). I guess you would assume that the not so handsome guy was the creep stalker dude. I was climbing with Matt this day and even he being a careless man noticed his pearcing eyes. I don’t know why but he would stare at me for more than 30 seconds at a time, even when I glanced at him he wouldn’t look away. So uncomfortable when you know someone is staring at you 2/3s of the time. It was funny because he was belaying his friend and I would be sitting behind him 8m away and he would turn around with belay glasses on and stare between clips. Matt continuously teased me all night. I went there again the next day with Yona and again the creepy guy turns up. WHY! hahaha I warned Yona about him. He didn’t believe me at first, but then creepy guy walked up the hill and had continuous eye contact with me and a really seedy smile. “That is more than creepy” Yona sheepishly said to me. I had a plan though to show how seedy he was, when we were all packed up I took a selfie with him in the background. And guess who he was staring at the back of my head when I was lining up the shot. I took a few shots and he didn’t even care hahaha… I saw him again in a few days, he had sunnys on but i could feel his beady eyes on me… eww. I still don’t know how to respond to people like that…
 The "Creepy Guy" in the Selfie behind me >< |
 Matt Pascoe Crushing "A crabita" Photo: Eric Godfrey |
4 weeks felt like 1 week like it always does. You think you are on a long trip, but no matter what, it always goes fast. I met so many lovely people, amazingly they were either from Colorado or Israel. Thanks everyone for the fun times and all the support, the trip wouldn’t have been the same without it. Special thanks to Lucy, Matt and Min for putting up with me for the longest. I have never tried so hard on a trip, we need the downs to feel the ups! Oh yeah word of the trip was false. 8 weeks before the next adventure, Bluies get psychedddd!...
 Sexy Belayer on Stand-by Photo: Eric Godfrey |
The Lovely People in Rodellar
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