I gave myself a goal this week, to get on Beautiful Thing(28) and Spoonman (28). With minimal 27s in South East Queensland, I had to skip a grade or two :P
Progression had been very minimal the first few times on the climbs. Friday I was on Spoonman, it’s such a powerful and steep climb. I once thought, I would never get to the anchors. Especially when I tried it 4 months ago and only managed to pull the crux once after 3 dogging sessions. This time I came back more determined and stronger. I got every move without too much effort and finally got to the anchors!
Similar events occurred with Beautiful thing! I have never been on a climb with so many gastones and even in the crux this giant gastone is a stopper if body tension isn't held. I tired over and over, an couldn’t get the crux at all. I was too short for the manly way and jess’s way. So intermediates were the key, I modified jess’s awesome beta and managed to pull the crux move in the 4 attempt and then was able to finish the climb.
It felt so good to have such major progress on the climbs and in a relatively small time frame! Finally psyched and ready to work on some linkage then some sweet sendage.