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Rodellar Yeow!

8/11/2014

1 Comment

 
Wow, I can’t believe the month of October has passed. I’ve spent all this time in Rodellar, Spain, rockclimbing of course!  I wanted to go to Rodellar for a while, people rave about it even more than Kalymnos.  With this curiosity, I arranged time off and I booked my flights to Spain 4 months in advance.  I was super dooper psyched for another new place in Europe to explore.
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Beautiful Rodellar Photo: Eric Godfrey
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Rodellar Gorge.. So nice
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The Famous Dolphin Photo: Eric Godfrey
The thing is, I thought Rodellar was quite a small crag aka just the famous dolphin arch.  I was so wrong, the dolphin was tiny and there were multitudes of crags, all within minimal walking distance from each other.  I also had this assumption that the climbing would be tufa climbing much the same as Kalymnos.  The climbing is quite varied, many holds had cracks or square edges.  The easier climbs were usually quite hard and pumpy, really need to be climbing consistent 7b and above to really enjoy this area.  The gorge is breathtakingly beautiful, people are lovely and most importantly the climbing was absolutely amazing!  I loved the long, steep, power endurance routes, I felt like I was in my element.  
Fig season in Spain. This is Lisa, MJ and Iplundering all the figs we could find and consuming them. 
Meeting another Tracey is a rare coincidence. Meeting another Tracey that is Asian, a climber and in Rodellar is just 1 in a gazillion. 
Ever wondered how to make your own Kneebar Pad, with a old climbing shoe? Well, this is how! 
 

Upon arrival, I didn’t get the crazy 1 week of hideous jet lag, but I did get the 1 week of getting used to the style easier climbing hahaha..  I ended up getting on many harder things, considering that I wanted to make this an onsight trip.  So, I still suck at onsighting because all I did was project.  I had set my eyes on many of the classic 7b+s and in a few weeks I had ticked off quite a few and was onto 7c.  “Nanuk" was my choice, super steep tufa climb with a heartbreaking crimpy finish.  I managed this climb in 4 shots and was super stoked. The day I sent, I tried “L’any Que Ve Tambe" another 7c in the Boveda.  OMGOSH, it was so good. Why didn’t I get on this sooner? This one had to be done. 
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"L'any Que Ve Tambe" Grande Boveda, Ahh such a great climb. Photo: Eric Godfrey
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Lucy doing her thang! Photo: Eric Godfrey
On a separate occasion I got on this 8a called "Gracias Fina", yeah, no way would I be sending anything this hard on a trip right? I did all the moves quite easily on the dog. So, I was willing to give it another day to see what I could link. The next day, I was able to link the crux all 15m of it. Wait, I did all the hard moves, this might be possible. Second day on, I had another go of “Gracias Fina” I wasn’t having much luck on it, links were not easy. I was still super committed, the grand prize of doing an 8a on a overseas trip would be super rad. At this stage, I had 4 climbing days left and my mission was to tick “L’any Que Ve Tambe” and "Gracias Fina”.  The plan was GF, LT, rest and GF, GF or LT depending on sendage.  It was time to refine the beta and get route fit. Day 1, GF I knew I wouldn’t have much chance yet, but I got a new high point. Day 2, LT the masses came from France and I could only get on the route 2 times, first time just refined the beta and next shot fell at the crux… it was looking like I wouldn’t get anything sent at this rate.  Day 3, business time, warmed up on the route and got used to the moves again. Second shot got a high point at the red point crux. 3rd shot got passed the crux, stuffed my feet up and fell off a few moves later.  Ohh the emotions started to sink in I stuffed up the send because my brain blanked out and I only had 1 more day and that my power would be down second day on.  Day 4, gotta give it everything and that I did, I don’t think I have ever screamed so much on a climb. The first shot I got stuck at the red point crux.  Second shot, I gave it everything… I now consistently climb through the first crux and with the red point crux I death stared the bread slice pinch and screamed my way through.  I only just caught the huge undercling after the crux. It wasn’t over yet I had 7 moves before I had an awesome knee bar rest. I got my hands mixed up 4 moves in and I tried to fix it, but it was too late I peeled off the tufa jugs in slow motion.  The things that were running through my head were "it’s over that's my last good burn", "I can’t believe I made such a stupid mistake" and "I was so close how could I let it slip away".  For the most part I felt ok about my efforts, Lucy felt so sorry for me she started crying.  I gave it everything I had and if that wasn’t enough, then it was not meant to be. 1 move off the rest and an easy 7a to the anchors. Gahh makes me sad thinking about it.  I gave it another burn, but my pinch strength was gone.  So I ended up with no sendage, big fat bummer and a half. 
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On the other quick draw, there were a few crag creeps around!  For the most part, people know how to check someone out inconspicuously.  Before I mentioned that it was a French holiday, so many Frenches were around and yes, I do love their ascent, makes me melt.  One day at Prince San Rie crag, 2 frenches rock up.  One was so drop dead, ripped, handsome kinda like a crag prince and the other had a nice body and darker hair (photo below).  I guess you would assume that the not so handsome guy was the creep stalker dude.  I was climbing with Matt this day and even he being a careless man noticed his pearcing eyes.  I don’t know why but he would stare at me for more than 30 seconds at a time, even when I glanced at him he wouldn’t look away.  So uncomfortable when you know someone is staring at you 2/3s of the time.  It was funny because he was belaying his friend and I would be sitting behind him 8m away and he would turn around with belay glasses on and stare between clips. Matt continuously teased me all night.  I went there again the next day with Yona and again the creepy guy turns up. WHY! hahaha I warned Yona about him. He didn’t believe me at first, but then creepy guy walked up the hill and had continuous eye contact with me and a really seedy smile. “That is more than creepy” Yona sheepishly said to me.  I had a plan though to show how seedy he was, when we were all packed up I took a selfie with him in the background.  And guess who he was staring at the back of my head when I was lining up the shot. I took a few shots and he didn’t even care hahaha… I saw him again in a few days, he had sunnys on but i could feel his beady eyes on me… eww. I still don’t know how to respond to people like that… 
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The "Creepy Guy" in the Selfie behind me ><
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Matt Pascoe Crushing "A crabita" Photo: Eric Godfrey
4 weeks felt like 1 week like it always does.  You think you are on a long trip, but no matter what, it always goes fast. I met so many lovely people, amazingly they were either from Colorado or Israel.  Thanks everyone for the fun times and all the support, the trip wouldn’t have been the same without it.  Special thanks to Lucy, Matt and Min for putting up with me for the longest.  I have never tried so hard on a trip, we need the downs to feel the ups! Oh yeah word of the trip was false. 8 weeks before the next adventure, Bluies get psychedddd!...


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Sexy Belayer on Stand-by Photo: Eric Godfrey

The Lovely People in Rodellar
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1 Comment

Nowra, Nowra Fun Times

1/10/2014

1 Comment

 
What is the most aesthetically unpleasing place to go climbing in NSW? Nowra of course! I recently got a chance experience Nowra for the first time.  It was balls ugly, dirty, bouldery and moist. I’m not selling it to you at all, hey? I must admit the place sure did climb well and I was so keen for some onsighting practice. I ended up going down to Nowra twice in the space of a month. Woo fun times!

Weekend Number 1:

Friday, caught up with Julz, my old friend from uni and went to a seminar on “GUM DISEASE” haha woo tax write off.  Had a very delicious dinner, dessert is displayed below. 
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Dessert at Devon Cafe, Surry Hills

Saturday came around and this was when I turned 25. Yep, I’m a slightly old fart.  It was a little rainy in Sydney but Reuben and I decided to out to Nowra anyways. Reuben, took me to Southcentral first because it was a huge cave and most likely dry.  I warmed up on the hardest 17 in the universe which is now graded 19.  Then I gave "Crime is Art" a go, short punchy and huge moves. Haha wooo 23 was so hard. I worked out the beta and gave it another go. I managed to get through the crux but I ripped off some of my thumb nail and got very distracted. Failed on the last few jug holds.

Headed to The Grotto for some slab action! I tried so hard to onsight "Avocado Queens" I climbed into the first crux and couldn't figure it out so I down climbed, rested then climbed through only to fall on this wet patch. Reuben applogised, he didn't think the climb was wet. I didn't mind it was fun and challenging! "Belgian Tourist" was up next, the crux was so technical, thin and precise.  I had a bit of trouble I thought conditions were good, but I was actually peeling off most holes. 

Dinner time! Reuben booked “The Hungry Duck” for a special birthday dinner =D It was an amazing day topped off with awesome company and luxurious food.  

Sunday morning why not go to a nice cafe for breakfast! MmMm so yumm… It was time to meet up with Clint and Emz at Thompsons Point.  I was quite excited again another new crag and more fun to be had.  I onsighted a few of the crag classics 21, 22 and 22. I got mega flash pumped and let out a huge power scream. 

It was time to move on, I was so keen on trying “Cowboy Junkies” one of the mega classic 25s of Nowra. 5m roof to a large throw move to the head wall and funkiness to the top. I did alright figuring out the moves but the big move to the pocket from the roof just felt impossible. I tried it a zillion times, until my core just gave up on me. Fun route but I’ll just have to figure out beta next time when I’m fresh. 

Sunday meant it was time to head home. I flew back to Brisbane but just wanted to climb more. Till next time!



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Thompsons Point!
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Reuben comparing quick draws sneaky shot :P
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Dyno on "Crime is Art" South Central

3 weeks later weekend take 2 at Nowra:

So psyched on Nowra and the fun company of Reuben, I headed back down to Sydney.  Saturday morning we had breakfast at a cafe that he supplies coffee to.  I must admit it was the best breakfast I’ve ever had, it was healthy as well.
 
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Best bloody breakfast ever!!!


We then headed down to Nowra, weather wise it was much better than a few weekends ago but quite a few cliffs were still seeping.  This was the weekend Reuben wanted to get his project "Coneheads” and I really wanted to get on “Trigga Nigga”.  We headed to the grotto to do a few warm-ups before Reuben jumped on “Coneheads”.  He did so well but wasn’t able to finish it off.  We then headed to PC crag, where I gave “Trigga Nigga” my best insight attempt.  I could read the climb really well from the ground and once I got on the climb I was focused.  The crux was thin and I read it 2 ways, big move or intermediate before a better crimp. I opted for the intermediate and i screamed all the way through the crux and the jump move to the sloppy jugs was great. When i finished the climbing I couldn’t believe that I had onsighted my first 25. Wee so good! I tried a 26 after and couldn’t even pull the first few moves hahaha failed hard :P Reuben tried “Brother in a Body Bag” all the moves went quite easily but the last jug was so soapy, he slipped off every time he went for it.  What a great first day, mission for the weekend done.  We went to point perp and stayed there for the night.

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It was so lovely to wake up at the beach, the sand was so white and we could just walk for miles. We decided to go to Rosies first up to check out if "Mega Mach" was dry.  Ended up just doing one of the warmups there and got super pumped and rested with a hands free bat hang so fun. Mega Mach just looked really mossy, not the best conditions hahaha. Back to “Coneheads” to give reuben the sending belay! Reuben has been suffering from sending block for awhile now after surgery on his elbow.  1st shot of the day was awesome, but I think reuben on sending block on the last hard move hahaha.  I had a go next and had to climb that hideous crack first, it was so hard.  I managed to get all the moves out but ease except I got very confused at the top haha. I brushed all the holds and put a gigantic tick mark on the hold that Reuben fell off.  Time to shine, Reuben.  Sendy Send with ease! He was so happy because it was the last time he was going to be out at Nowra for the season and the mental sending block was gone.  


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Reuben crushing "Coneheads". Go Reubs!
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A pretty amazing banana pie special at Harts Yard
We headed back to Sydney and got ready for a celebratory dinner at one of Reubens favourite restaurants.  Harts Yard was amazing, why am I starting to love Sydney? Well I like the expensive parts of Syd hahaha. It was sad to leave but a weekend trip never lasts long. 

Onto new adventures Rodellar Spain here I come! Yeowwwww…
1 Comment

Being the Man at Frog!

18/8/2014

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Well, my full psych has not returned yet, but that doesn't stop me from trying really hard when I do go out climbing.  Beautiful day, like most days in Brisbane. I love the weather, air and atmosphere! 

Eric and I decided to head out to Frog, because it's always a challenge even on the days with the best conditions.  Plus, I like shoving my  limbs in some nice cracks.  We started off the day with "Gladiator" Grade 18 hand crack goodness. Eric struggled slightly on it and I just led the climb on his gear. When I clean the climb a 0.75 cam had walked its way deep into the crack. Even my little skinny E.T. like fingers could not get to the trigger. It was mission time! Eric stole my asender (that is now permanently in my pack) and jumared up to where I was. We fiddled for about 6 minutes before we both nut keys were locked into the trigger wires. Some whiggle and jiggle and it was out!

It was my turn to choose a climb, Eric suggested "Odin" grade 20.  It looked great and it also had a magic floating block, so I was sold. The first 2/3s was pretty cruisey, I reached the magic block and I could see this weird overhanging crack crux move. *swallow* I tried to protect myself with a number 4 but my little arms just couldn't reach that part of the crack. I placed a 0.75 in this chosey part of the crack hahaha and then I said to myself "Hope that holds if I fall". I pushed myself into the crack wedging my feet in as well. Then my right hand went to a Gaston behind my head, where I had to match with my other hand. I let out a mighty power scream *rawwrrrrrrr* and managed to pull the move.  I thought to myself that is such a hard move for a grade 20.  The rest was super nice hand sized jams, amazement. :)

Eric wanted to lead "Devils Dyhedral" grade 20, he did it with ease and I followed him up. Such a great climb and it was way easier than "Odin".  

Eric asked me..."What do you want to do now?" I said "I love the climb "Voices in the Sky"" a grade 25 face climb. The only thing was, I did't know if I had the balls that day to lead it!  Eric wasn't going to put the gear up for me :P There were a few factors against me:
  1. It was in the blazing sun
  2. I've never led anything that hard
  3. It only had small gear on it (luckily I just got another set of aliens)
  4. And I was scared as F** o.O

But I wanted to 
  1. Conquer my fears
  2. Show Eric how awesome the climb was
  3. Try really hard
  4. Climb the whole climb placing excellent gear!


So it was on, "Eric, I have the balls, lets do this!!!!". I racked up all the smaller aliens, cams, nuts and scrotum.  With the last words of encouragement from Eric "Go for it, you might surprise yourself or else you can just figure out the moves". Well, I was super careful with the first 5 pieces of gear I placed. Then I placed a black cam in a shallow part of the crack, yelled out to Eric "This one doesn't look too good!". As I placed another piece a little higher up my feet slipped and I took a 5 or 6 meter whipper. The black alien ripped out and I was sitting on my next piece of gear.... Wahhoooo! When I was dangling there I realised that I just scrapped the ledge to the left of me. 

I got myself back on the climb, I knew this was the crux and there was at least a 2m run out with committing moves.... I managed to place the next piece of gear by heel hooking and leaning all the way over, I blindly stabbed a green alien in the unknown crack. I slowly sat on it and it was awesome! I figured out the sequencing of the crux... So scary! I eventually got to the top. Even though it was an epic to place gear, my feet were throbbing so much I could hardly edge and my sweat was dripping out of my fringe like a tap, it was a fantastic experience! Now onwards to sending it this season...

Thanks Eric for a super dooper day!!!

Xx   :)

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Yumm Cams for breaksfast!
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After "Voices in the Sky" ohh the sweat!
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Eric on "Galdiator"
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TR Eric-san
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Just a Selfie :P
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Stick went through my shoe :(
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1 Comment

Recent Slump in Motivation.

9/8/2014

1 Comment

 
After new years  in the Bluies, hard crimping action gave me the unpleasant surprise of an A3 finger pulley on my right ring finger.  All I wanted to do was keep climbing, I was so motivated.  The thing is, I defiantly had to rest my finger, but I kept on climbing and climbing.  It ended up taking 4 months to fully recover.  I was in Arapiles and the Grampians when my finger was recovering, it was frustrating, but at least I got to climb.  After the trip I came back to Brisbane feeling strong, so I turned my training and climbing up a notch.   After 6 weeks or so my body was starting to say "NO", my elbows were hurting and my triceps.  Every dynamic power move was 10 times harder and that extra effort gave just frustrated me.  I was one tired bunny, emotionally and physically.  Coming back from a trip and going straight back into work and 4 days a week of climbing/training was not a great combination! It has been so hard to stay in a routine when I have a million different jobs, where I'm required on different days, with unpredictable hours and long drives.  

I suddenly had no drive to do any training, climbing or socialising.   My body was screaming out for rest and I didn't realise at the time that I needed rest and lots of it.  I have had slumps in motivation before, but not like this, for the next 3 weeks I pretty much ate in bed and went to work.  Sometimes, I would fall asleep with food in my mouth hahaha. Great example from a dental hygienist! 

Finally, when I got my ass back on the wall, I felt great! My body was healed and I was just climbing for fun. None of this "Must Send" or feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't climb very well.  I've also just spent the last few weeks out of my comfort zone, woo slabby ledgy climbs at Kangaroo point (our local inner city quarry chossey ledge fest)

What I've Learnt:
  • If you are as obsessed with climbing as me, you will feel motivated again!!
  • Listen to your body, you only have one. Look after it!
  • Always remember why you climb, do it for yourself no one else.


Xx
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Me on "Weave World" The Gallery Crag, Grampians VIC. My Favourite photo by Yogi.
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Why Small Jugs are Awesome for Climbing!

17/7/2014

3 Comments

 
Ever heard of "Crimp Jugs"? They are also known as "Mini Jugs", intended to be held with one hand but still quite positive. I can so relate this to my bust or lack of. :P

I always wanted C cup boobs and I repeatedly thought I was going to get them because my mum was quite gifted in the breast department. Sadly at the age of 21, I realised that these iddy bitty titties had reached their full capacity.   I didn't go as far as stuffing tissues or rocks into my bra but I did always wear a heavily padded bra with that super uncomfortable underwire, yuk.  Liza and climbing taught me that big jugs aren’t everything; I have embraced it so much that I have a word just like "Crimp Jugs" for my tits!  "Mitts" stands for muscle tits or boobies made of muscles.  Due to my pectoral formation from climbing, they are now more muscle than mammary tissue. Hehe

Small boobie advantage list: 
  • They just don't get in the way!
    • Who wants to go walking into the crag when your boobs get caught on every stray branch on the path or
    • When you're doing a mantle and you decide that beach whaling is the best option, you might end up with no boobs left when your slowly slidding down that course rock, you defiantly need the surface area of your tummy as well as your boobs to save you from the impending doom of slipping off that edge or
    • When you’re in a frantic rush to find that foot hold right under the line of sight of your boobs, with the seconds counting before you are totally bricked and take a massive whipper.
    • And the cross through move where your boobs just in the way of a perfectly stylish technique based move.
  • I guess having bigger tits helps you on a slab because it sucks your upper body in but as for overhang its best to have the complete opposite.  When your fore arms are on fire and you can't get your weight to your feet that extra few grams/kilos all counts :P
  • Power to boob ratio! Not staying that girls with large breast can't climb but the more dynamic/power moves you do, the more gravity pulls you down in the recoil or downward motion of the breast after you have made the move.  Also they might fly into your face if you’re trying hard enough. Keep them strapped down tightly, in your sports bra ladies. 
  • Boob sweat can be embarrassing, the smaller the boobie surface area the less boobie sweat.  Noone wants a upside down T sweat mark!
  • When you're crack climbing big knockers it can be helpful if you need an extra boob to cam into the off width crack when your balls’in it and about to fall. This of course is not pleasant, can cause bruising and deform the natural breast shape.
  • In the end its always going to be a high gravity day with D sized knockers, they are defiantly good to look at and feel great but climbing wise, for the majority of the time are not helpful.
  • Don't forget the constant attention you get from the boys looking down at your chest, when all you want to do is climb! We don't want to get harassed by boys; we would rather onsight your project. :D

Anyways, we are all beautiful the way we are.  No matter what you are blessed with! So love your mosquito bites, E jugs or saggy sandbags.  Remember being confident and having a great personality, out shines a nice set of jugs any day!!!

Xx



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Just showing off the MITTS!
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Example C
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"What Mitts you lookin at?"
3 Comments

This is what 2 weeks in the Bluies looks like!

19/1/2014

2 Comments

 
BLUE MOUNTAINS! O how I have miss you in this past year.  Another 2 weeks during Christmas and New years was heaven.  Such a fantastic vibe and crew to climb with. Seriously did not want to leave! 

It was like a routine to wake up and eat breakfast, go have a coffee at a cafe then head off to the crag. I love morning coffee! :D Then cook up a huge meal after and just chilled out. 

So after 2 weeks of editing and getting some much needed help from Sarah! This is what I have produced.  

Enjoy and happy viewing!!!
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Trix Roughly, Bluies

10/1/2014

1 Comment

 
Thanks Logan for making a little video of me on Trix Roughly in the Blue mountains.

This was my best send of the trip, really cool bloudery climb with non blue mountains beta. Can't wait to head back there :)

Enjoy!

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Blue Mountains, I love you!

4/1/2014

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Just came back from a 2 week stint in the Blue Mountains over Christmas and New years. It was a slow start to the trip, I had been working very hard since I got back from Kaly. I needed to relax and get used to sandstone again. Met so many people and hung out with friends near and far. Got to climb completely different climbs to the previous christmas and also had a send train going. 

Heres a link to Logan and my adventure on one of the most famous multipitches in the Blue Mountains, Australia. Hotel California is a 10 pitch, 355m climb, graded at 22. It takes an average party 6 hours to complete but we ran into some trouble. It took 3 hours longer than expected. Logan has done this climb before too! 

Enjoy!

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Reasons to Love Kaly!

9/11/2013

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Theres a reason I haven't been blogging! Mainly due to the fact that there is just way too much to do in Kaly! Overall, I spent 5 weeks climbing in Kalymnos, Greece. It has been an amazing experience from the climbing, the people local and from around the world, atmosphere, food, it just feels like a second home! 

I am going home a happy kid as I have pushed myself on this trip and I am very happy with the results :)

Here 
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Ahh Climbing is Such Fun!

10/10/2013

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Ahhh how good have the last 2 climbing days been! Lucy and I started concentrating on 1 day projects and some harder onsighting!

Illiada was our first destination! I finally walked past climb that I knew that I wanted to get on! This steep short roof called Dolonas (7b+) after a couple of really good warmups it was on... There is an awesome cut lose move, thats kinda risky but I was able to stick it first shot! I fell off shortly after and figured out the rest of the beta... On my second shot I had gotten to the last tufa clean, toe hooked and clipped the chains while slipping off the tufa!!! Ohhh such a good route :) Photo below. 

Iannis for our second day on. Did some awesome technical climbs that were slightly slabby and required some thinking! Lucy onsighting them all was quite inspiring! Then we got on Tufa King Pumped this 7b+ that looked amazeballs and was amazeballs! Techniqual start then jug haul on mini tufas, cool sequence through the crux and really varied easy jug haul and hand jamming to the end. Lucy put up the draws, then I had a shot and only fell in the crux... and didn't listen to lucy's beta as I was too in the zone.  Lucy got on it again and killed it, made everything look easy! Then I finished off the day with a dog fest, I just ran out of energy... then realised we did 150m of climbing today more than any other day here! Heres to a rest day :)
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