Theres a reason I haven't been blogging! Mainly due to the fact that there is just way too much to do in Kaly! Overall, I spent 5 weeks climbing in Kalymnos, Greece. It has been an amazing experience from the climbing, the people local and from around the world, atmosphere, food, it just feels like a second home! I am going home a happy kid as I have pushed myself on this trip and I am very happy with the results :) Here
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Ahhh how good have the last 2 climbing days been! Lucy and I started concentrating on 1 day projects and some harder onsighting!
Illiada was our first destination! I finally walked past climb that I knew that I wanted to get on! This steep short roof called Dolonas (7b+) after a couple of really good warmups it was on... There is an awesome cut lose move, thats kinda risky but I was able to stick it first shot! I fell off shortly after and figured out the rest of the beta... On my second shot I had gotten to the last tufa clean, toe hooked and clipped the chains while slipping off the tufa!!! Ohhh such a good route :) Photo below. Iannis for our second day on. Did some awesome technical climbs that were slightly slabby and required some thinking! Lucy onsighting them all was quite inspiring! Then we got on Tufa King Pumped this 7b+ that looked amazeballs and was amazeballs! Techniqual start then jug haul on mini tufas, cool sequence through the crux and really varied easy jug haul and hand jamming to the end. Lucy put up the draws, then I had a shot and only fell in the crux... and didn't listen to lucy's beta as I was too in the zone. Lucy got on it again and killed it, made everything look easy! Then I finished off the day with a dog fest, I just ran out of energy... then realised we did 150m of climbing today more than any other day here! Heres to a rest day :) After 4 climbing days wearing everything I owned to stay warm! Conditions were finally amazing. Went to Odyssey yesterday and the wind was still too much so decided to chase the sun, Kalydna it was for the afternoon. It was amazing to climb in the sun and not have finger freeze, this is what I came here for. =D
Today Lucy and I decided on a late start, but didn't realise that conditions would be perfect for an early start! It was good because I got to have breakfast with Rumi as she was leaving later in the day. Bye and enjoy Paris Rumi, my Asian twin! I was off to Panorama, got on a bit of everything. Had a few epics and scratched my arm up. Got pumped out of my brain on long and sustained routes! Saw a little snake around the rocks as well. Last climb of the day the sun had hit the wall completely it was hot and spoogy! Time to climb in a sports bra, felt so good not wearing a jacket climbing. Tufa sustained climbing here we go, I totally just pumped out with 2 desperate clips that was dodgy! I guess I have to learn how to bridge and climb tufas better! lucky I have 5 more weeks to learn ><. After 2 days of climbing in crazy winds and doing only easy warm-up climbs just to get used to the rock and crags, I just wanted to climb something more challenging. I planned to go out today but the winds had picked up even more today and its even colder... I mean how bad could the wind be right? when 5 layers does not keep you warm, fingers freeze half way up the climb and your beanie nearly blows away while climbing. 46km gale winds!!! Time to stay in and eat more food :P at this rate I will come back with a belly :P
Winds should be easing tomorrow! Super keen :D After 30 hours of travel, that ment 4 flights, 2 cab rides and 1 ferry ride. I also met Lucy and her 1 year old son in Abu Dhabi. We were finally on the island of Kalymnos!!! Peta, Scott and Rumi saw me arrive and had me all settled in! Thanks so much :)
First meal was grilled squid stuffed with feta! OMG it was good. After that I felt so jet lagged so sleep was on the agenda! Amazingly I got 6 hours. Super psyched to climb in the morning :) I went to a crag called Odyssey such a cool looking crag! I just climb a few easy routes 6b and c. So fun and chilled for the day after a long haul flight. The weather was beautiful except for the wind... it was vicious today and will be tomorrow! Left Early went and ate lasange and gelato. Rested and got supplies. More delicious food and gelato. This is the life =D. |
AuthorTracey Hua Archives
February 2016
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