Eric and I decided to head out to Frog, because it's always a challenge even on the days with the best conditions. Plus, I like shoving my limbs in some nice cracks. We started off the day with "Gladiator" Grade 18 hand crack goodness. Eric struggled slightly on it and I just led the climb on his gear. When I clean the climb a 0.75 cam had walked its way deep into the crack. Even my little skinny E.T. like fingers could not get to the trigger. It was mission time! Eric stole my asender (that is now permanently in my pack) and jumared up to where I was. We fiddled for about 6 minutes before we both nut keys were locked into the trigger wires. Some whiggle and jiggle and it was out!
It was my turn to choose a climb, Eric suggested "Odin" grade 20. It looked great and it also had a magic floating block, so I was sold. The first 2/3s was pretty cruisey, I reached the magic block and I could see this weird overhanging crack crux move. *swallow* I tried to protect myself with a number 4 but my little arms just couldn't reach that part of the crack. I placed a 0.75 in this chosey part of the crack hahaha and then I said to myself "Hope that holds if I fall". I pushed myself into the crack wedging my feet in as well. Then my right hand went to a Gaston behind my head, where I had to match with my other hand. I let out a mighty power scream *rawwrrrrrrr* and managed to pull the move. I thought to myself that is such a hard move for a grade 20. The rest was super nice hand sized jams, amazement. :)
Eric wanted to lead "Devils Dyhedral" grade 20, he did it with ease and I followed him up. Such a great climb and it was way easier than "Odin".
Eric asked me..."What do you want to do now?" I said "I love the climb "Voices in the Sky"" a grade 25 face climb. The only thing was, I did't know if I had the balls that day to lead it! Eric wasn't going to put the gear up for me :P There were a few factors against me:
- It was in the blazing sun
- I've never led anything that hard
- It only had small gear on it (luckily I just got another set of aliens)
- And I was scared as F** o.O
But I wanted to
- Conquer my fears
- Show Eric how awesome the climb was
- Try really hard
- Climb the whole climb placing excellent gear!
So it was on, "Eric, I have the balls, lets do this!!!!". I racked up all the smaller aliens, cams, nuts and scrotum. With the last words of encouragement from Eric "Go for it, you might surprise yourself or else you can just figure out the moves". Well, I was super careful with the first 5 pieces of gear I placed. Then I placed a black cam in a shallow part of the crack, yelled out to Eric "This one doesn't look too good!". As I placed another piece a little higher up my feet slipped and I took a 5 or 6 meter whipper. The black alien ripped out and I was sitting on my next piece of gear.... Wahhoooo! When I was dangling there I realised that I just scrapped the ledge to the left of me.
I got myself back on the climb, I knew this was the crux and there was at least a 2m run out with committing moves.... I managed to place the next piece of gear by heel hooking and leaning all the way over, I blindly stabbed a green alien in the unknown crack. I slowly sat on it and it was awesome! I figured out the sequencing of the crux... So scary! I eventually got to the top. Even though it was an epic to place gear, my feet were throbbing so much I could hardly edge and my sweat was dripping out of my fringe like a tap, it was a fantastic experience! Now onwards to sending it this season...
Thanks Eric for a super dooper day!!!