With no intention to send anything, I got on a few classic climbs. Sometimes, it’s just nice to try hard to let go of the mounting everyday pressures. I climb to feel free from all the distractions in life and hard projecting was the way to do it. “Smoked Muscles” gave me the frustrations, just because I couldn’t pull the first reachy move. Otherwise the dynos were awesome and fun! “Onions” I had an epic trying to put on one of the draws. So spent from the ordeal, I didn’t make it to the top but the moves were so unique. Pockets, compressions and crimps. I bought a panic draw after hahaha. My favourite project was “The Way of All Flesh”. Cool name and rad moves. Consistent steep climbing with no super good rest. Power endurance, why did you fail me. I ended up very close to the send with only 1 sit. I just really enjoyed the whole process. No expectations was the best way to climb.
So it was my 4th day on and I just wanted to have a chilled out day, on a multipitch. I was thinking maybe grade 15 to 18 climbing. I went with Alex and he suggested that we do “Yak Banquet” a grade 22. I wasn’t so sure, but then it’s well within my capabilities. So off we went, 4 abseils down and it was time to go back up. The climb felt pretty hard, I don’t think I did any of the hard pitches clean.
There was this one incident where I was 5 metres above the bolt standing on a break, where I could just reach the jugs above me, I had to mantle to try and put the next quick draw on. The next bolt was out of my reach and I started down climbing. I could only touch the ledge with my tippy toes. I managed to swing back in, with a huge fright when I land back on the ledge. Seriously, had flashes through my head about falling backwards 10 metres and smashing my head onto the slab. I was in tears after this, with Alex not knowing what was going on. I managed to find a stick on the ledge and dodged up a stick clip. I was able to clip the next bolt and just yelled “take” straight away. Then there was a last slog to the end. 6 pitches took more than 6 hours hahaha. Dog fest but so fun nonetheless. What’s a day without an epic or two, at least I didn’t loose my grigri this time. :P
I was not always a patient person in my past life because I was the youngest girl in the family. In the last few years, I have learnt how to be patient. I would like to think that I’m now more patient than the average human.
We had the lovely Jen, come with us on this Bluies trip. She had only been outdoor climbing once before this trip. It was a huge learning curve for both Jen and I. She achieved so much in her ability for climbing and learning the basic skills of being an outdoor climber. At the same time, I learnt that everybody learns differently, your frame of mind is very important for soaking up teachings and it pays off to ask something if you feel uncomfortable or don’t understand the situation. Practice doesn’t make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect. Thank-you to everyone that helped Jen out, Eugene, Jess, Oliver, Tristan and Nancy.
Maybe, I’m actually getting good at this onsighting thing? “Legoland” was my first significant onsight of this trip. Such a nice long route, with cool moves and a crux where you have a few options to choose from.. eep.
On new years day, I decided to go to Zap Crag and drag some friends along with me. I wanted to get on “High Tension”, with no intention to onsight it but to put up the draws and do the climb second shot. I honestly didn’t think that I could onsight anything in the mountains that was grade 25. I loaded up my draws and Eugene gave me a catch, I switched into Onsight Mode. I could see that there were 2 cruxes, one in the middle and one right at the end. I read the first crux wrong but managed to match and correct myself for the dead point. Woo, there were so many sit down and lie down rests. The upper crux was much harder, a rounded roof flake with crimps all around it. I don’t have much recollection of how I did this bit. I just know that I went for it, especially when going for the final jug, power screams all round hahaha. I managed to lose my way, at the top and made life hard for myself but yes, my hardest onsight in the mountains. Such a good start to the new years.
Jen and I were fortunate enough to stay in the mountains for a few more days. I have been wanting to jump on “Weak As I Am” at Upper Shippley every time I’ve hit the mountains. I’ve always looked at it and said that I could never onsight that! Well, I got flash pumped but it wasn’t too bad. It was interesting all the way and the crux just needed to be read correctly. Who knew that I would be onsighting at this grade, when I first started climbing I just wanted to be able to climb a 25. AMAZING!
Wowsers, I’ve met more people and caught up with a bunch of friends this trip. I found these new compadres through friends, parties, the crag and instagram (creepy). It’s great getting to know new people, analysing their behaviour and different personalities. Catching up with friends from Brisbane and the mountains was also awesome fun. Chilling out, having a laugh and talking about dirty stuff, is what it’s all about. People are so diverse, it’s beautiful and I love learning about human behaviour.
Overall, It was a fantastico trip. I couldn’t have asked for more. Now to plan Grampians and Arapiles in Easter. You always have to look forward to something, thats what makes life worth living. Xx