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New Climber? Here are a few tips to keep in Mind!

11/2/2016

1 Comment

 
​I still remember when I first started climbing! I never wanted to climb outdoors, but I was always psyched to climb harder and I admired all those super strong toned climbers at the gym *stars in my eyes*.  Well, a few things have changed. I now love climbing outdoors, travelling is a priority and I admire all the climbers that try really hard on the wall!  It inspires me when I see someone giving 100% no matter what grade they are climbing; they are having the same mind blowing experience.  So I would like to share some simple ways I got stronger and how I kept my psych high!
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Keep Climbing
Ever heard of the 10,000 hour rule? “The principle holds that 10,000 hours of deliberate practice are needed to become world-class in any field” by Malcolm Gladwell.  Many climbers ask me how I get better at climbing. I usually say keep getting on rock or plastic, especially if you have only been climbing for 0 - 2years.  Your body is still adapting to climbing, building the correct muscles, skin and movements for the job.  So the more hours you climb the better you will get! I definitely have not accumulated 10,000 hours climbing, walking or hugs!!!
 
Technique
I still find it quite amusing when a new couple goes climbing for the first time. Especially, when the guy has layers and layers of weight lifting muscles and the girl is super petite. I always see the girl crush him on the routes.  Just proves that strength only gets you so far!  So how do you improve your technique? Personally, I learnt the basics from more experienced climbers. Similarly, you can get the basics from technique classes that climbing gyms provide.  After that, I observed climbers who had flawless technique, to learn more.  I watched foot placement, hand grips, body position and balancing points. My goal was to look smooth and controlled on the wall, like a ballerina. So even when I warmed up, I treated it as technique practice and I climbed as effortlessly as possible. Work hard on being in balance for every foot placement and hand movement. Remember, you and your body never stop learning technique, so let it embrace you!
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Mental Strength
The Voices
When any task is in front of you, you may be faced with little voices in your head saying “What if I fall?”, “This is too dangerous”, “I don’t know if I can do the next move?”, “I’m so pumped”, “I don’t want to get hurt!” … the list is never ending.  The further I progress with climbing, the more I realise that believing in yourself and pushing through your mental barriers is what can enable you to reach your goals.  Physically we are usually totally capable of performing the move or task – we just have to believe it. Here’s an example. I have been pumped silly on a route, and it was imminent that my blood vessels were going to explode.  My bricked forearms make every move feel more and more desperate due to my loosening grip.  I ‘think’ I’m going to fall off but I’ve discovered if I push through, I would often make it at least a few more moves higher, or sometimes even end up with a send! ‘Pushing through’ literally means in that crucial moment, believing you are capable of something, that you may have no prior evidence of being able to do.
 
Fears
Fear of falling, who has not been through this???  Why? We are just not programmed to enjoy falling.  So how can we overcome this fear? Think of a ladder, you can put the fear of falling into brackets of certain heights say on a scale from 1 to 10: 1 being the easiest fall to 10 being “I could never do that!”. Keep in mind that you will have to build up to doing all these falls. Here is an example below, although you can make your own progression up with what you feel comfortable achieving, and with less levels if you want.  Please make sure you are on an adequately long (and preferably steeper) route, with room to spare and have gear backed up when you are taking longer falls. Additionally, have a belayer you trust and remember that whilst you are facing a fear - safety comes first!
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​So you can work on level 1 until you are comfortable, then progress to level 2 etc. At each level you reach, your fear will be wiped like a full line in Tetris! So when you have done level 1 and 2, level 3 will feel like level 1 and one day level 10 will feel like level 1 or 2 and you will definitely know that you can do it! This gradual tackling/progression method can be done with all fears, it’s helped me overcome many of my own.
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Be Kind to Yourself
“Self-compassion - extending compassion to one's self in instances of perceived inadequacy, failure, or general suffering” Wiki. Every person struggles with this; we can be so hard on ourselves especially when we fail! Sometimes, I don’t even realise I was being extremely negative on myself. Until you actually realise and accept that you are being negative, you can’t improve your thoughts.  Ever been called a strong climber and brushed it off? I have done that a million times. People don’t say things because they don’t mean it, so take a minute to reflect on what they say and be happy about an awesome compliment… let it sink in a little!  When you are a climber, it is super easy to compare yourself to other climbers, gosh, I definitely have.  I remind myself that climbing is fun and we are all here to help out each other. I have helped and been helped by climbers. We are always learning, so why do we need to be competitive and/or compare yourself? No one’s is going to go up to you and say “You are weak you, shouldn’t be on the wall!” it’s all in your head or those people are not worth hanging around with! Think of how you view other climbers when they struggle, fail or succeed. I bet you usually have kind thoughts for them, so do the same for you!
 
Pin point your weaknesses!
My goal is to be an ‘all-rounder’ climber.  I know we like to train or climb to our strengths, but that will only get you so far.  For example, thanks to some crack climbing I remember finding a hand jam on a sport climb and I was so glad I knew how to jam!  So my advice is to ask your friends, video yourself or self-assess what your weaknesses are.  2 years into my climbing, I worked really hard on my goldfish beta memory, flexibility, endurance and technique. My climbing improved exponentially and even now I continue to pin point and work on my weaknesses.  Simple but effective stuff!
 
Rest is best!
Psyched to climb every day? Be careful when you’re new to climbing.  Your body is growing the muscles you need to scale those walls. Muscles grow faster than tendons, and this can cause strained/inflamed tendon injuries like tennis elbow etc.  Also, the more tired you are when you climb the easier it is to make mistakes or go for a hold half-heartedly.  It’s leading you into injury territory.  I have been quite fortunate with injuries so far, touch wood.  I usually climb 2 days in a row max and do some cross training on my rest days.  Listen to your body!

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So give these little tips a go; you don’t need to be strong to be an awesome sauce climber.  Just have a great attitude, work on a bunch of little improvements, enjoy the process, be silly, sing, fart and wiggle that sexy climber butt!
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First Impressions Last

30/12/2015

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We all know that first impressions last, but I seem to have many weird first encounters that I don’t even remember… So I had some help and I hope you get a some entertainment out of this.
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Pretending to poo!
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Left this gem on Henks phone :P
Paul Steinig
Inside shared room, Rodellar Apartments, Spain
“I’m just going to hang my washed underwear everywhere in this room, just warning you!”
 
Lachlan Pearson
Pages Pinnacle, Gold Coast, Australia
“I’ve got a present for you” *Gives Lachlan a scab that I freshly peeled off my leg*
 
Eric Godfrey
Crag Prince San Rear, Rodellar, Spain.
While Eric was climbing, Matt tells me to steal his awesome chair! *Runs off with the light weight crag chair down the slope*
"I know where you live!!" Ahh she will bring it back…

Victor Michael
Arhi Crag, Kalymnos, Greece
*Talked about Duck Butter to Craig and Darryn at while belaying, of course it had to be a detailed explanation*
I must hang with this bunch of Australians, they're my Peeeeppps!

Rob Saunders
Some local crag in Brisbane, Australia
*Poked his bumhole*
That’s my type of lady :P

Adam Atiken
Urban Climb Gym, Brisbane, Australia
*Quoted all these different ways of calling woman bits*
 
Owen G
Walking out of the crags in Kalymnos, Greece
*talking to Selene and Lucy about the southpark episode about you eat through your bum and poo out of your mouth*
Isn’t that the Crude Asian Australian girl that Susy G said that I would recognise o.O

Selene Ma
Lago Lindas Camp ground in Red River Gorge, Kentucky, USA
“Hey other Asian” is how I introed myself.
How dare she call me that!

Liza Strounina
Kangaroo point, Brisbane, Australia
*Danced on the lamp pole together, we know how to pole dance, Not!*
 
Battal K
Josito Camp, Turkey
“I can’t say your name, can I give you a nick name?”
“No you are in my Country”
I went on a mission to be friend him after that and it worked J

Kreme
Communal kitchen in Josito Camp, Turkey
K “Are you going mountaineering?” *I was wearing my mega puffy down jacket, then Anita and I just laughed and started playing fart tennis and nearly rofled. I also think I started singing Crème get on top!*
Are these girls drunk???

Michael Thomas
Coolum Cave, Queendsland, Australia
“Someone smells good”
*Smelt around to see who smelt good, everyone else was a bit smelly but I had deodorant on” That’s a random comment, made me laugh and smile!

Sam Freireich
Restaurant in Kalymnos, Greece.
*Rubbed his bald head* The texture was just so good!
 
Vinh Pham
The Rock Climbing Gym, Brisbane, Australia
I belayed him on a lead climb he fell and the rope flicked over his man bits, Ouch!
Not the worlds worse belay, at least I didn’t hit the ground.

Martin Gotthard
Brooyar, Queensland, Australia
Explained Spastic Eagle and Elepant Rape, the were also demonstrations :P
 
Yishan Lee
Centenary State High School, Brisbane, Australia
I drew poo and man bits all over Yishans books.
 
Jennifer Saada
Urban Climb, Brisbane, Australia
I farted loud and smelly...
My delicate French nose!!!

Shannon Steel
Steel house hold, Brisbane Australia
Farting, burping and rude comments
How can she still look so innocent :P

Alyssa Vu
Uni of Queensland, St Lucia, Queensland, Australia
I humped her leg hehee ^^
 
Vegard Rise
Josito Camp, Turkey
*Pull my finger* 
Yep this one is crazy funny!

Amut and other pick up line victims!
Josito Camp, Turkey
"Are you a hard climb? because I'd like you to onsight me" ;D
This is too much..

For those who I haven't met, get ready for a world of crazy and fun! More to come soon hehehe.....
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The many faces of Tracey! (Secretly Pink Power Ranger)
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Climbing in Your Pants!!!

1/12/2015

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Ever had the balls to try a pick up line on a guy or a chicka? Well, a few mates and I made up a whole bunch of climbing related pick-up lines. Anita and I went on an expedition to pick-up random climbing boys in Geyikbayiri, Turkey. The video below is the result, Enjoy!!!
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Climbing Alone? How to Choose Your Belayer

9/11/2015

3 Comments

 
We all know rock climbing is classed as an “extreme dangerous sport”.  Well it is, if you’re mountaineering, free soloing, trad climbing, etc. But in general, roped sport climbing is very safe.  There are dangerous factors such as: if you don’t know what you are doing, the hardware is dodgy, or you have a belayer who is inexperienced, lazy, inattentive, or gives euro belays.  May I remind you that the person holding the rope has your life in their hands? So choosing a belayer carefully will increase your chances of survival, prevent you from getting injured, and give you confidence while climbing! I am particularly picky because I am a lightweight.  It’s not easy to give a soft catch, especially when the belayer is 30kg heavier than the climber, but even if there isn’t much of a weight difference, you can still slam your partner into the wall. 

In my hometown of Brisbane, all the friends I climb with are so awesome at belaying me that I often forget that not everyone is a great belayer. I was in my own little belay bubble. Then I get reminded whenever someone new gives me a catch and I come hurling into the wall.

So let’s go through a few key points for finding your belayer!
 

Communicate
The first point of contact with potential climbing partners is normally at the campground, at the crag, or through the internet. If you have not seen them belay or climb, do not make any rash decisions until you have had a good chat about the topics below:
  • Top rope or lead: Some climbers will only top rope, so you would have to put up the climbs they want to do and bring extra gear. Most climbers can lead; confidence while leading is key.
  • Confident with lead belaying: Ask the question, how confident are you with lead belaying or how long have you been lead belaying for? Make a decision that makes you feel comfortable.
  • Can your climbing partner clean a climb?: Being able to clean is very useful; you don’t want to climb something twice unless it’s a mega classic.
  • Yes, you are going to have to talk about grades: Having too much of a difference in grades can be difficult.  It shows the person’s experience with climbing as well. Furthermore, you will need to choose a crag that has the right grades for everybody.
  • Soft catches: A soft catch (a.k.a. a dynamic belay) is when the belayer lets the rope and gear absorb most of the falling potential. You fall, and then the fall turns into a slow stop, instead of a sudden jerk. Think about what an elevator does when it stops at every level. Ask your potential belayer if they know how to give you a soft catch! Since it’s very important for injury prevention, I will explain more about catches later.
  • Climbing experience: You’ll want to ask the following questions: How long have you been climbing for? What types of climbing have you done? Etc. Go with the person you feel the most comfortable with, usually more experience is better.
 
Observe
There are some tell-tale signs that someone is new to climbing or if the belayer you have chosen is not suitable.
  • Observe what your potential belayer is wearing/how they look:
    • Lead Pass: Super fresh from the gym. I am very sceptical.  Most gym climbers will like to top rope outdoors, will not know how to clean a climb, and will be unaware of other outdoor climbing dangers.
    • Helmet: It is awesome that climbers wear helmets, not bagging. Newer climbers like to wear helmets, I am just a little bit more aware of the belaying side of things.
    • Main belay device is not auto-locking: ATCs are very commonly used, but when your belayer lets go of the rope it does not auto-lock. However, ATCs can give an awesome soft catch when used correctly.
    • Weight difference: For me I cut the line at 30kg; it then becomes very dangerous for the climber to fall on the first 4 bolts and as the belayer you can get sucked into the first draw. Ouch…
    • Shiny brand new gear: Not a scratch on the gear spells brand new climber or rich guy. Just be more aware that they are new to the outdoor scene.
    • Non aggressive climbing shoes and socks: Signals a newer climber but then I’ve seen some hard-core climbers climb in sneakers!
    • When the person has enough gear on their harness to go on a mountaineering expedition and still have slings and prussics left over: Many new climbers love to bring every lifesaving piece of equipment they can find. They will be prepared at least.  I am cautious and I will tease if I climb with them. :P
  • Observe how people belay:
    • Checkity Check: It’s a great habit to make sure all your gear and knots are correct before you leave the ground. This includes a knot at the end of your climbing rope. There have been times when we didn’t check, and I had forgotten to close the carabiner for my belay device or the rope was in the device the wrong way. It’s everyone’s responsibility, so I always check whether I belay or climb.
    • The belayer’s hands are not always on the brake rope: No matter what ATC or auto-locking device the belayer is using, if the belayer does not always hold the brake rope, I would avoid getting a catch from this person.
    • Short Roping: It’s my pet peeve, and it can really get you in trouble when you have a hard clip. Get your new belayer to belay you on a climb that you are comfortable with first or avoid this belayer, especially if they short rope on nearly every clip.
    • Not paying attention to the climber: It actually really freaks me out when belayers don’t attentively watch their climber.  There are times where you can take your eyes off them e.g. when they have just clipped or when resting for long periods of time. If it hurts your neck, get a pair of belay glasses, I can’t live without mine. Another thing that makes me uneasy is when my belayer has a huge conversation with someone on the ground. Normally, I yell out “Are you with me” or an attentive belayer will tell me not to worry about the talking, because they are always watching me. 
    • Belayer pulling back when the climber falls (a.k.a. Hard Catch): This is a scary no-no. You do not pull back unless the climber has ground fall potential.  When you pull back, yes the climber doesn’t fall as far, but it creates a pendulum effect.  The climber then falls and swings into the rock. The climber can get hurt; I’ve heard about bone bruises, broken ankles, etc. This can also happen if there is a large weight different between belayer and climber. Being 53kg, I don’t let anyone belay me unless they can give me a soft catch! It’s magical…
  • Observe how they climb
    • Climbing harder grades: Does not necessarily mean that they are a good belayer, but it does mean they have more experience.
    • Top roping: Many people top rope; it’s nice to not have that fear of falling. Just be aware that unless you want to be the top rope gun, then this is not the partner for you.
    • Struggling at every clip: When a climber does sketchy climbing. It’s not your safety that is the concern. The climber puts his own life at stake and if you are on the other end of the rope, it can easily become your fault or a guilt trip if an accident happens.
    • Rope behind the leg: I used to be one of these people who always got the rope behind my leg every time I freaked out on a climb. It’s not nice to fall with the rope there and it can flip you upside down. Just be prepared that there is more accident potential if you climb with a person like this.
 
Once you have chosen!
When you climb with your new belay partner:
  • Always make sure you check each other’s harness, ropes, knots, belay device, etc. before climbing.
  • Sometimes we say different words for “take”, “safe”, etc. Make sure everything is clear before you start climbing. Sometimes I say “take” when I’m above the bolt, I actually mean “falling” and now I have a sore ankle. =(
  • Ask if there is any special request for belaying the person and viceversa, e.g. Can you go in direct if you are hanging on the rope for long periods of time.
  • I like to reiterate that I am light and I need an extra soft catch. I have a spiel that I tell all new belayers.
  • If you are leading, you can gain trust by taking a few practice falls once you have clipped the anchors of a climb. Try to make sure the climb is either vertical or overhanging. This will confirm if your chosen belayer knows how to give you a soft catch.
  • Remember! Even when you have chosen your belayer, if you ever feel uneasy about your choice you can always say “No” to the person. 
I haven’t always been a great belayer. It’s taken quite a few years of experience for me to get my technique down pat.  I have the occasional short rope or blonde moment, but that is why we check and double check.  I’ve become pretty awesome at finding belayers I trust and have a rad time climbing with! Enjoy and keep clambering!!!
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The Terrible Belay Troll! Photo by Darryn Rogers
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The Man of My Dreams!....

22/10/2015

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Many of my friends have suggested that I would find the man of my dreams on this year long trip. I’m totally convinced now... Not!  I’m now in the mountainous limestone area just outside of Antalya, Turkey. I’ve been calling it “Jubacki” but it’s actually “Geyikbayiri”, dyslexic much. Climbing here is tranquil and calming because of the running streams and never ending green forests.  I’m totally feeling one with nature!

Ok, back to the man of my dreams. I was climbing with Eric a few days ago when this tall, skinny, pale, blue eyed, mousey brown buzz cut dude comes around the corner with half a pomegranate in his hands. He didn’t have the best teeth, he spoke broken english and I wouldn’t call him attractive.  He wore dark blue knee socks (yes socks for your knees), the purpose I wasn’t sure. I had no instant attraction but I was attracted to the pomegranate in his hands, so I asked him: “Where did you get the pomegranate from?” He didn’t really give me a straight answer but he did give me some pomegranate… YUMMM.  I then found out he was from Russia and his name was Victor.  I told him I was from China/Australia.  He asked me in detail what grade I climbed and it dawned on me that socially Victor was willing to approach awkward conversations even when we had just met.   Soon after that, I was giving this climb to the right my second shot. I was just chilling out on the ledge when Victor comes powering up the climb next to me. Breathing heavy and with all of his fingers totally taped.  He gets up to the same ledge about 5 metres away and starts talking to me in his Russian accent: 
V: “You are very nice climber, technique good”
T: “Thanks”
V: “You like me, I can tell”
T: “No no no” 0.o
V: “I mean, I like you”
T: “Thanks….” *Fake smiling, get me off this ledge*
V: “Do you understand???”
T: “Yes, I’m climbing now” *Kill me now….*
I totally got creeped out after this…. He gave me a hi5 because I did the route but I didn’t want anything to do with him after he said those things to me…

A few days later, I went to do my project. I had worked on this climb for 2 days previously and was super keen to climb it. After a few warm ups, Victor arrived, loaded up with more pomegranates of course, and was super happy to see me.  I didn’t give him much attention just said hello. I walked over to my climb and Victor was doing these crazy helicopter arm rotations, I thought his arms were going to fall off.  After this he sprints up his climb, leaving his belayer running after to give him enough rope. Yes, he was still rocking those knee sock things.  It was now my second shot on “Pumping on big mothers beast”, I was tied into my rope and my shoes were on. I was starting the deep breathing, when I hear Victor from above. 
V: “Hey China Woman, I have something special for you!!!”
T: *I look up* (Victor is in a roof climb but is resting in near splits, all I could see is his crotch) *bleeding eyes* “Thanks nice” *Busted out laughing*


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You can just see him up there in the splits with his knee socks!
There were 10 people around that witness this. It was really funny but embarrassing for me. I started climbing and my concentration was abysmal. I just couldn’t get the image of his trouser potato out of my head. I made it to the crux but then fell. Victor disappeared for a while, in this time Eric and I both sent the climb. :D Happy days!!! As I was packing up the rope, Victor comes up to me…
V: “What is your name?”
T: “I told you already and you forgot. THEN YOU CALL ME CHINA WOMAN!!!”
V: “Sorry, can you tell me?”
T: “My Ling” *eyes still bleeding*
V: (Hands me a wedge of pomegranate) “For you”
T: “Thank-you” (gives it to Eric) *getting creeped out*
V: (Comes back 5 minutes later and hands me half a pomegranate) “This is special for you only”
T: “Umm Thank-you” *Awkward smile and even more creeped out*
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Not sure what will happen on the next encounter but let’s just say it will be interesting.  I think I would like him to stay in my dreams and not be the man of my dreams. Crotch image forever ingrained in my head… Ayeee Yaaahhhh….
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What has blown my mind thus far!

7/10/2015

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Stick Clip
My stick clip is the best, I love it so much!!! It is the super clip and I bought the stick from America.  It has already saved a guys ankle. It has no problem taking draws off, putting draws on and placing rope back into the first clip.  I thought I knew exactly how to use it.  Then Marin showed me how to stick clip the rope without it falling out of the clip. That was the biggest problem I had with the stick and it was solved, now I will never have the rope fail to land inside the quick draw. Mind blowing photos below!

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Rope falls out!
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Rope passed through the top, secures it. MIND BLOWN!
The Australian effect
Since I’ve spent the last few weeks with Darryn and Craig, I have found this infectious “Australian Effect” at the crag.  Yes, we are the loud, obnoxious, dirty minded, piss taking and goat noise making people at your nearby crag. Too many people are so serious, trying to send their projects, wanting to be impressive on the rock or protecting their butts from hitting the ground.  We are just out to have fun and climb a whole bunch of sick routes, man. Safety first, of course!
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Craig, me and Darryn, the AUSSIES!
Fart Tennis
I went over to Marin and Jai’s place the other night for dinner and some Catan board gaming. I was having one of those, gassy kind of days. Letting it rip every few minutes. Obviously, I have no shame in bodily gas excretion. Then Jai asked me to play “Fart Tennis”, I was totally eager to learn how to play it. Here are the rules: 2 farts = a serve (they need to be loud and clear, the other player must be awake) then you say “Serve”. The other player must reciprocate with a fart within 10 seconds, if they do then the serve player must fart back, it goes back and forth until someone can’t fart anymore. Normal point system applies e.g. Tracey 5 Eric 3  15/0

Eric and I have been playing fart tennis as I write this, it’s so hard to volley back. I am leading but he’s getting the hang of it and we just did a 5 shot play. Ewww smelly!
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My fart tennis buddy!
Most people don’t climb hard
Since I left Australia and my usual hard core climbing partners, it has come to my attention that most people don’t climb hard grades. There are many crags in Kalymnos that I have never been to because all the routes consist lower grades. Craig, told me that 99% of climbers climb under the grade 22/6c+/5.11c. Eric found that the average grade logged in America was 19/6b/5.10c.  Mind Blown! At every crag I notice the girls; minority are super strong, some lead 6s and many top rope. Nothing wrong with top roping, it’s just weird how it’s shunned in Australia. I never considered myself a strong climber, after hearing the stats I am proud of what I have achieved. The reason I want to climb harder is so I can challenge myself and do more of the classic routes around the world!
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Darryn on the Thetis, Arhi, Kalymnos. 6b+
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The Emotions of Leaving Everything You Know…

30/9/2015

1 Comment

 
About a month before I left Brisbane, I had a mini freak out…. Everyone was asking me “Are you ready?” “What about your mum, she will miss you?” “Are you excited?”  I think I reached the question threshold about 1.5 months before the trip. Every time I was asked, I would just shudder and say “I’m really stressed out, there is so much stuff for me to do before I go. Mum is not happy about me going and I won’t be excited till I’m on the plane. All of these things were reinforcing all of my negative thoughts………

The thing is, I had planned time for all my errands and to help my parents out with their tax and direct debit bills before I left. As for the excitement, that came when I got to Greece. :D So why was my mind still doing stress loops?...... I guess it was a constant reminder to my deadlines and that my whole life was about to change.  I ended up making up some simple answers to give to the reoccurring and continued questions. So, I changed my thought structure believing that I would finish my errands and if I didn’t, there were family members who would help me out. Finally, some inner peace…

I’m a bit of a crier, I always thought it was shameful or embarrassing.  Then it was pointed out to me that if the chance of me crying is almost 100%, then just let it happen.  People won’t point and laugh, they will just know that you care.  It’s hard to say goodbye to your family, friends and work colleagues. I ended up with 9 different farewell events, it was good-bye after good-bye… I took it pretty well for the most part, but I thought of it like “See you later” and not “Good-bye forever.” It didn’t make it any easier for my close friends and family either.
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Learning how to control my anxiety and stress is a process. Also, having these emotions is not a sign of weakness, it’s actually a sign of strength. Being vulnerable around your friends and family, makes you human and it shows them that you love and care for them. Let it be one with you, don’t fight those internal feelings!

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Mumma and I :P
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When a break is needed, why not take 15 months?

23/9/2015

2 Comments

 
A little bit of background….
Well, it’s a known fact that I love clambering!!! It has given to me, more than I could ever give back. From mental strength to having extremely defined mitts (muscle tits). Since I started climbing 4.5 years ago, I always dreamt of travelling the world for climbing. After a year of climbing in the gym and at local crags, I went to the Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia. I don’t think, I have ever looked at a holiday the same again. I was hooked, by my climbing rope of course. I then thought, why not take 4 weeks off, 3 times a year. I worked hard for this goal. I placed myself in 3-4 jobs, where my employers were happy about me taking time off.  I was only around for 1-2 days/week at each job, so no one ever missed me that much. However, another ultimate goal was in the works... In my travels, the people I’d met had been on even longer holidays, year-long ones! My mind was blown; I knew what was in store for me next.


2 to 4 week holidays - Give me more!
Life experience and self-development.
One of my goals on this trip is to grow as a person.  I’m never going to grow up, but I can still learn stuff.  I’m not going to be the same Austrasian when I come back from a global 15 month trip. In modern society, we are usually trapped by a single way of thinking, we are married to our jobs and most of what we do is dictated by money.  As humans, we all have our little quirks and issues to work through.  A trip puts you in situations where you will be uncomfortable or will need to do some problem solving.  Some personal areas of improvement that I would like to focus on are self-confidence, being self-compassionate and standing up for myself in difficult situations. Seeing the world can make us appreciate how lucky we are at home and maybe, in my case, learn a little more geography. Is Greece next to Italy?

Cost
Climbing trips are usually pretty cheap compared to a typical touristy holiday. Airfares and getting to and from places still adds up. So the less you move around, the more you will save and the longer you can stay.  I don’t class myself as a complete dirt bag, but I am still on a budget of $50 AUD a day. This includes airfares, food, transport and accommodation. Add a little bit of spending money on that. It’s also nice to treat yourself on occasion, so do so.

Climbing
I’ve always wondered what would happen to my climbing if I did it full time.  When I did some of my previous 4-6 week trips, I felt so strong and would start ticking off so many climbs.  So I wonder what will happen if I climb for 3 months at a time? Only time will tell.  Enjoying the climbing in so many different areas is my motivation.  Climbing makes me feel free, especially when my instability on the ground outweighs my gracefulness on the rock tenfold.

Work
I graduated 5 years ago as an Oral Health The-rapist. Since then, I’ve been working part-time in the field. Leaving for a year can be very detrimental to most people's careers, that’s why I didn’t leave after 1 or even 3 years.  I chose 5 because I now have fantastic referees and enough experience to get me a job anywhere I like when I get back to Australia.  Even though I love my job, it was getting to a point where a break was needed. My conclusion was that, I would not want to stay in the field for much longer if I kept working the way I did. So yes, as sad as it was to say good-bye to all my patients and work colleagues, it was time.

What is involved in taking a year off?
Trip Itinerary
I needed to know how much money I needed to save up. So the first spreadsheet I made was for “cost/area” and the “total cost” of the whole trip. I put down Greece, Turkey, USA, Canada and China. I did my research for these areas (flights, food, accommodation and transport), always trying to overestimate. Spreadsheet number 2 was for “General expenses at home”, I then was able to have the total expenses for when I was away expenses for my holiday and expenses for at home.

Savings
Now I knew how much I needed for the 15 months off (at home and holiday expenses).  It was time to see how much I would be able to save. This dictated when I was able to start my trip. I also, realised that I wasn’t making enough money, so something had to change. I ended up making a spreadsheet on my “Work Options” and I went for the best work life balance. I had to drop a day at my lower paying jobs and attached on higher paying days. I also wanted a cash buffer, just in case.  In the end, I saved up more than I thought I would. Happy days! The thing is, if you have enough money, then you can keep travelling and if you run out, then you can always head home or work while you are away. It still makes me nervous, thinking about not earning anything for the year…. Then I think about it and I’m earning priceless experiences.

Costs at home, suspend and direct debit.
When I decided to go on this trip a year ago, I kept track of all my bills. I ended up direct debiting as many as I could and asking my sister-in-law to keep track of my mail.  I found out many memberships such as gym, health insurance, etc. could be suspended.  I kept my car and my dental hygienist memberships, making sure I did all the prerequisites for the next year to keep my registration.  I looked out for expiry dates on credit cards etc, renewing them straight away if they were going to expire. On more serious matters, I assigned a power of attorney, so that in a case of emergency, my power of attorney can sign on my behalf.

What do you need to bring for a longer trip:
  • Copies of important paperwork e.g. Passports, license, credit card
  • Passport approved photos
  • Appropriate visas e.g. More than 3 months in U.S.A needs a special visa
  • Medication refer to Travelling Well, Dr Deborah Mills book. Great book for medical advice while travelling.
  • A few different ways of getting money either credit cards or travel money cards
  • Less luggage, you can buy stuff when you’re away.
  • International drivers license 

I’m bloody enjoying my trip, so get on the bandwagon too!!!

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Being a Social Media Whorra Pays Off!

20/2/2015

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Verticle Life - Why I Climb

Ever wondered what motivates you? Money, love, material items, fame, family, a healthy toned body, happiness… or entertaining others via classic fart antics? Well, this is what drives me to climb...

Utopic Happiness
The moment I step my foot off the ground and grasp the rock face; nothing else matters in the world but the task at hand. Stresses of life melt away.  Determination, focus, total body control (and quite a few power screams) push me into a place of indescribable joy.  Knowing how hard I’ve worked to clip the anchors gives me a smile that I can’t wipe off my face, even if someone farted on it.

Climbing = Life Skills
Projecting a climb for more than 30 shots = helps me practice patience, and that sometimes I have to fail to succeed.
Pulling hard on the crux = teaches me determination. When life gets hard, making one more move can get me somewhere new.
Overcoming fear of falling = pushing through this helps me to closely examine any real or imagined fears.

Homosapiens, I Love
Many people in this world have become superficial, money orientated and in some cases evil.  Through climbing I have found the most genuine, fun loving, psyched on life and dirty minded humans ever!  My climbing friends taught me that living out of the (regimen day to day life) box is totally achievable. Yeow, to long extended climbing holidays!  
Also,  why wouldn’t you love this sport, with hot bodies everywhere at the crag! Bring on the well defined climber dudes with mousey brown hair and blue eyes!
Every so often, I find being myself can be difficult in ‘everyday’ society. I’m so thankful for my fellow climbers that tolerate me (in small doses). Where else could a crude little gassy Austrasian that power screams way too much, fit in so well?!

Rock hugging has given me more than I could ever give back. Love clambering! Xx
Check out: http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/
Monthly Newsletters. Let the VL people know and they will send you one every month. 

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Climbing Magazine - Instagram Whippers

USA's Climbing Magazine asked me via instagram to send in my whipper photo! OMG I'm in a magazine hehe.  Thanks for the photo Eric Godfrey and the photo Eugene Mak.
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Mountain Obsession - Profile

Did a Profile for the mountain obsession peoples. Made me go back in time and see how much I have achieved the last few years. I'm looking forward to the years ahead. See the full page on the link below: 

http://www.mountainobsession.com/tracey-hua/
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Bluies Love

11/1/2015

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It’s a little bit of a tradition, that I head down to the Bluies over Christmas and New Years. So, this year was just the same, plus every other Queenslander.  After Spain, I had no psych whatsoever to climb. Having only gone outdoors 3 times, in the space of 7 weeks.  Indeed, very strange for me. When I got down to the Blue Mountains, I was so chilled out. Didn’t feel like I needed to climb much or climb hard. I was definitely looking forward to a bit of time off, a nice environment and plenty of cafe sitting and sipping.



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The Megalong Valley. Photo by Eugene Mak.
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Shippley Walls, The view from Wave Wall, The Glen. Photo by Eugene Mak.


Projecting
With no intention to send anything, I got on a few classic climbs.  Sometimes, it’s just nice to try hard to let go of the mounting everyday pressures.  I climb to feel free from all the distractions in life and hard projecting was the way to do it.  “Smoked Muscles” gave me the frustrations, just because I couldn’t pull the first reachy move. Otherwise the dynos were awesome and fun! “Onions” I had an epic trying to put on one of the draws. So spent from the ordeal, I didn’t make it to the top but the moves were so unique. Pockets, compressions and crimps. I bought a panic draw after hahaha. My favourite project was “The Way of All Flesh”.  Cool name and rad moves. Consistent steep climbing with no super good rest. Power endurance, why did you fail me. I ended up very close to the send with only 1 sit. I just really enjoyed the whole process. No expectations was the best way to climb.
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Taking a whipper off "The Way of All Flesh" Bardens. Wee! Photo by Eugene Mak.
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The famous heel hook on "Smoked Muscles" Wave Wall, Centennial Glen.
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"Onions" Boronia. Photo By Jess K


Multipitching
So it was my 4th day on and I just wanted to have a chilled out day, on a multipitch.  I was thinking maybe grade 15 to 18 climbing.  I went with Alex and he suggested that we do “Yak Banquet” a grade 22. I wasn’t so sure, but then it’s well within my capabilities.  So off we went, 4 abseils down and it was time to go back up. The climb felt pretty hard, I don’t think I did any of the hard pitches clean.

There was this one incident where I was 5 metres above the bolt standing on a break, where I could just reach the jugs above me, I had to mantle to try and put the next quick draw on. The next bolt was out of my reach and I started down climbing. I could only touch the ledge with my tippy toes. I managed to swing back in, with a huge fright when I land back on the ledge. Seriously, had flashes through my head about falling backwards 10 metres and smashing my head onto the slab. I was in tears after this, with Alex not knowing what was going on. I managed to find a stick on the ledge and dodged up a stick clip. I was able to clip the next bolt and just yelled “take” straight away.  Then there was a last slog to the end. 6 pitches took more than 6 hours hahaha. Dog fest but so fun nonetheless. What’s a day without an epic or two, at least I didn’t loose my grigri this time. :P




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Alex Forwell and I at the top of "Yak Banquet" Perrys Lookout.
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Alex climbing the 2nd last pitch.
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I reached to top, see that smile. Thank goodness we were out. It was not a rest day climb. :P


Teaching
I was not always a patient person in my past life because I was the youngest girl in the family.  In the last few years, I have learnt how to be patient. I would like to think that I’m now more patient than the average human.

We had the lovely Jen, come with us on this Bluies trip.  She had only been outdoor climbing once before this trip.  It was a huge learning curve for both Jen and I.  She achieved so much in her ability for climbing and learning the basic skills of being an outdoor climber.  At the same time, I learnt that everybody learns differently, your frame of mind is very important for soaking up teachings and it pays off to ask something if you feel uncomfortable or don’t understand the situation.  Practice doesn’t make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect. Thank-you to everyone that helped Jen out, Eugene, Jess, Oliver, Tristan and Nancy.




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Jen at the top of "Birthday Bolts", getting ready to do her first clean.
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Go Jen. Crushing those crimps!
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The view from Perrys Lookout. Eugene you are a lucky man. Hahah


Onsighting
Maybe, I’m actually getting good at this onsighting thing? “Legoland” was my first significant onsight of this trip.  Such a nice long route, with cool moves and a crux where you have a few options to choose from.. eep.

On new years day, I decided to go to Zap Crag and drag some friends along with me.  I wanted to get on “High Tension”, with no intention to onsight it but to put up the draws and do the climb second shot.  I honestly didn’t think that I could onsight anything in the mountains that was grade 25.  I loaded up my draws and Eugene gave me a catch, I switched into Onsight Mode.  I could see that there were 2 cruxes, one in the middle and one right at the end.  I read the first crux wrong but managed to match and correct myself for the dead point. Woo, there were so many sit down and lie down rests.  The upper crux was much harder, a rounded roof flake with crimps all around it. I don’t have much recollection of how I did this bit. I just know that I went for it, especially when going for the final jug, power screams all round hahaha.  I managed to lose my way, at the top and made life hard for myself but yes, my hardest onsight in the mountains. Such a good start to the new years.  

Jen and I were fortunate enough to stay in the mountains for a few more days. I have been wanting to jump on “Weak As I Am” at Upper Shippley every time I’ve hit the mountains. I’ve always looked at it and said that I could never onsight that! Well, I got flash pumped but it wasn’t too bad. It was interesting all the way and the crux just needed to be read correctly. Who knew that I would be onsighting at this grade, when I first started climbing I just wanted to be able to climb a 25. AMAZING!


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Can't get rid of this smile, after a good burn or onsight! Photo by Eugene Mak.


People
Wowsers, I’ve met more people and caught up with a bunch of friends this trip.  I found these new compadres through friends, parties, the crag and instagram (creepy). It’s great getting to know new people, analysing their behaviour and different personalities.  Catching up with friends from Brisbane and the mountains was also awesome fun.  Chilling out, having a laugh and talking about dirty stuff, is what it’s all about. People are so diverse, it’s beautiful and I love learning about human behaviour.


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That's my awesome crag bed set up! Photo by Eugene Mak.


Overall, It was a fantastico trip. I couldn’t have asked for more. Now to plan Grampians and Arapiles in Easter. You always have to look forward to something, thats what makes life worth living. Xx


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Climbing takes me to a place of peace and focus..
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